El Retiro in Autumn: Madrid's Colourful Park Walks
Madrid's Retiro park turns gold and amber every autumn, right in the heart of the city. From the Salamanca district, where you'll find Bingo Odonnell on Calle de O'Donnell, it's just a short walk away, which makes it a good time to put on comfortable shoes and see how the park changes as the weather cools.
Why El Retiro is worth visiting in autumn
El Retiro is one of Madrid's best-known parks, and in autumn it looks completely different. The horse chestnuts, plane trees and elms turn from green to yellow, orange and brown, and the light is softer and warmer than in summer, which makes any walk along its paths a pleasant way to spend some time outdoors. Temperatures also drop, so walking is more comfortable than during the hottest months, and the park tends to be quieter than in spring. It's a good time to leave the car behind and simply walk, whether on your own or with friends, stopping along the way whenever something catches your eye.
What to see on an autumn walk
A few spots in the park show the change of colour particularly well, and there's no need to follow a set route to enjoy them: just walk at your own pace and stop wherever you like.
- The Estanque Grande, the park's large lake, where you can walk along the water's edge and see the colours of the surrounding trees reflected on the surface.
- The area around the Palacio de Cristal, one of the park's best-known glass-and-iron pavilions.
- The Rosaleda, the park's rose garden, which has a much quieter feel in autumn than in spring.
- The tree-lined paths near the Puerta de Felipe IV, where rows of trees stand out especially well at this time of year.
When to see the autumn colours
The colours change gradually through the season and vary slightly from year to year depending on the weather, so there's no exact date for it: the brightest tones are usually seen during the second half of autumn. Weekday mornings tend to be quieter than weekends, especially if you go early, when the light is also softer for walking and taking photos. Even so, it's worth setting off early if you'd rather avoid the busier hours, particularly on sunny weekends.
What to bring on your walk
A walk through El Retiro in autumn doesn't need much preparation, but a few things are worth bearing in mind before you set off:
- Comfortable shoes, since the park is large and you'll walk quite a bit if you want to cover several areas.
- A jacket or a few layers, as the temperature can change noticeably between morning and afternoon.
- A bottle of water, although there are drinking fountains inside the park.
- Your phone or a camera, since the autumn light is particularly good for photos along the tree-lined paths.
Do you need to book to get in?
No. You can walk into the park whenever you like during opening hours, with no need to book in advance. If you're planning to visit a specific pavilion or facility inside El Retiro, it's worth checking the park's official website beforehand, as opening times and access to some areas can vary depending on the time of year.
How to get to El Retiro from the Salamanca district
El Retiro is very close to the Salamanca district, right in the centre of Madrid. From the O'Donnell and Goya area it's an easy walk: Calle de O'Donnell itself leads to Avenida de Menéndez Pelayo, which runs along that side of the park and has several entrances. If you'd rather not walk, you can also get there by metro or bus; it's worth checking Madrid's official transport planner for the best combination from your starting point. If you're coming from outside the city, you can also leave the car in a car park nearby and continue the rest of the way on foot.
More autumn walks in central Madrid
If you feel like carrying on after El Retiro, the surrounding area has other spots with their own character that change with the seasons. Our article on Madrid's Gran Vía has a few ideas for rounding off the afternoon without leaving the centre.
An afternoon plan: a walk through El Retiro and a stop at Bingo Odonnell
After a walk through El Retiro, the Salamanca district has plenty to offer for the rest of the afternoon. Bingo Odonnell, on Calle de O'Donnell, 21-23, is open every day from 12:30, with free parking and a restaurant service offering meals, afternoon snacks and dinner in a relaxed setting. There's no need to book: you can simply drop by once your walk is over. Find out more about the restaurant here.
If you'd like to discover more of the park before you go, our article on what to see in Retiro park has more ideas to round off your visit. And if you're looking for directions to Bingo Odonnell or its full opening hours, you'll find them on the contact page.
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Bingo Odonnell is an in-person bingo hall at Calle de O'Donnell, 21-23, Madrid. Open every day from 12:30. Over-18s only, with ID card, NIE or passport. Please gamble responsibly.
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